Meeting and Tasting Alois Lageder

Earlier this week, Tyler and I had the opportunity to meet with Alois Lageder, an Italian winemaker from a winery of the same name in the Alto Adige region of northern Italy. While the region began in producing reds, Alois Lageder is producing some of the best whites in the country. The climate and conditions in Alto Adige are complex and different– the valleys are surrounded by the massive Dolomite mountains, and often the vineyards are on steep slopes reaching high altitudes. Alois represents the 5th generation of winemaking in his family. Since taking over the winery in 1974, his focus has been to reinvent its practices and focus, to produce sustainable and high quality wines.

A new focus for the winery has been implementing biodynamic winemaking processes, including building a new winery, using all natural materials. The vineyards and winery have produced 0% emissions since the 1990s, and currently they use solar power for 60% of their electricity needs. Since 2004, all vineyards are biodynamically and sustainably farmed. The 125 acres represent 15 different varietals, many indigenous to Italy. The winery recieved Demeter biodynamic certification in 2007, something we’ll see represented on the labels in the coming vintages. Alois spoke about the effect climate change has had on the vineyards, and that the only reasonable solution to help the vines adapt is to farm biodynamically “We don’t use [biodynamics] as commercial or marketing, we do it because it has to be done.”

2008 Beta Delta Pinot Grigio & Chardonnay
An even split between the two varietals, this wine is the first to be branded as biodynamic from Alois Lageder. Not only are the grapes farmed organically, the wine is made using natural yeasts and reused oak casks in aging. Its a lovely wine, smelling the spice from the pinot grigio on the nose to following the fruity chardonnay flavors in a balanced and crisp finish.

2007 Haberle Pinot Bianco
Pinot Biancos are a great value from the region. Coming from a single vineyard high up at 1400 ft. in the foothills of the Dolomites, this wine is crisp, cool and fresh– ideal for summer sipping. It’s a very food friendly wine, drink it alongside shrimp or other shellfish at a porch party.

2007 Benefizium Porer Pinot Grigio
This classically styled pinot grigio offers a distinctive spiciness on the nose, and big fruit flavors throughout the palate. The well balanced finish rounds out into a really lovely wine. The low-yield, 30 year old vineyard used to make this wine is leased specially by the winery from a local church.

2008 Vogelmaier Moscato Giallo
On the nose, this moscato giallo is ripe and floral, with notes of melon and basil. While the perfume is intense and delicate, on the palate the wine is dry and alive with acidity. This contrast is what makes this wine compelling- the mid palate fruit balances the dry finish. This wine is great to pop the cork on now and enjoy with asian food, or age it for a few years for the flavors to develop into a rich and mature moscato giallo.

2008 Lagrein Rose
From the local varietal lagrien, this rose has a lovely deep hue and strong backbone. While most roses spend only a few short months in tanks to age, this rose stays in the vinification process for close to five months to extend and enhance the flavors. It is very full bodied and tastes of blackberries, giving a light tannic finish. This wine comes in at a great value, retailing for about $15.99 in Massachusetts.

2005 Krafuss Pinot Noir
This wine is made in Austrian tradition from a vineyard planted in 1991. Sitting at 1500 ft, Alois is passionate about the terroir the property offers– sandy, limestone filled soil, marbled with clay. The wine is elegantly subtle, with a smokiness to it that’s representative of Alto Adige. According to the winemaker, it opens up in the bottle, so that when you sip it you taste the fruit on the finish, keeping the acidity to balance it out. On his philosophy for this wine, Alois said, “Pinot noir should have a light finesse, and not be too powerful.”

2003 Cor Romigberg Cabernet Sauvignon
From a 100-year old vineyard on a steep slope with lots of sun exposure, this

Through the Alois Lageder portfolio, the finesse and focus of the winery is easy to see. All of these wines are elegant, traditionally focused and delicious.

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