The thought of Argentina evokes images of a hot, dry landscape, a big, juicy steak simmering on the parilla, and an inky-red glass of Malbec. The Malbec varietal is now widely recognized as the crown jewel of Argentina’s wine producing regions. However, it was not so long ago that the reaction in the States would be something along the lines of “Mal-whaaat? Do you mean a merlot?” Argentina is now the largest wine producing South American country and the fifth largest in the world. Argentine exports, especially of Malbec, are growing at an incredible rate; Americans bought 41% more Argentine wine in 2009 than they did in 2008. At the heart of this moneymaking, Malbec-pumping industry is the region where the overwhelming majority of the national production takes place: Mendoza. Though vines have been planted in Mendoza since the 15th century, it was not until 1868 that the region met it’s soulmate. It was then that Malbec, fleeing the destructive Phylloxera vine louse that was then sweeping across Europe, was planted in area.
Mendoza is now synonymous with Malbec, and for good reason. Malbec, under many aliases, was one of the six grapes traditionally used in the blending of red Bordeaux wines. Known for being a blending grape, it rarely had the star power of a headlining varietal. A thin-skinned grape that requires lots of sun exposure and heat to reach full maturity, Malbec is also highly susceptible to rot if not kept dry. Argentina’s hot, dry climate offers Malbec grapes the soil to make its wines sing. Because the weather is often so dry, winemakers in the region irrigate the land with water melting off of the Andes’ peaks, giving them the advantage of precise control of hydration levels at the vines. Malbec is a black, mellow grape with large fruit, producing wines of an inky red or violet color. When done right, its wines are thick with the aromas of red fruit, plums, coffee, and chocolate. Earthy, dark, and generally tannic, Malbec tastes like a black fruit punch begging to be eaten with steak: an Argentine speciality!
So why did it take Malbec and Mendoza so long to find their stride? Like many fledgling wine producing areas, Argentine wine was for much of it’s
history only consumed locally. In the ’70s, those wild and crazy Argentines were packing away around 25 gallons of their own wine per person, per year! To put that in perspective, Americans consume a paltry 2 to 3 gallons per year. It wasn’t until the 1980s that Argentina decided to amp up their wine quality. Bad rootstock was yanked, new vines planted, and a brand new focus was shone on high quality production. Inspired by the success of Australian and Californian wines in the international export market, Argentina threw its hat in the ring. A formidable competitor, the wines of Argentina steadily rose in popularity throughout the 1990’s and early 2000’s, only to explode in the last few years.
Argentine wine, particularly its beloved Malbec, is (at its best) rich, deep, complex, and intensely flavorful. You have no choice but to be reminded of the hot, sunny landscape in which these grapes mature. Perhaps it is the nature of Argentine winemakers themselves that inspire such richness. Carlos Baccaro, a winemaker at the Salentein Bodega told us, “The vines are much like women. You do not need to understand them, you only need to love them.” Argentina’s Malbec is full of passion, and the best part is that you don’t need deep pockets to experience all of that fiery enthusiasm. Can’t afford a vacation? Don’t worry- you can create your own Argentina on any sunny day. Grab a great bottle, a decent steak, and some veggies, and stay home at the grill. One sip, and you’ll be transported to Mendoza.
